A low, squat church built of roughly hewn stones appeared in the center of Athens on the site of an ancient temple in the mid-11th century. The Chapel of Saint Barbara with its dome and the outer porch-narthex were added later. As a result, a three-part building of an unusual shape emerged, one that looked unfamiliar both in those times and even now. This, however, did not prevent the church from becoming popular and beloved by the people.
However, in 1834 it found itself under threat: the large-scale reconstruction of the city required the laying of new roads, and the ancient church stood in the way of one of them. But the father of the Greek king Otto opposed the demolition of the temple, the bishop supported him, and Kapnikarea remained safe and sound.
The church operates on an unusual schedule: on Monday, Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday from 8:00 to 14:00, and on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday from 16:30 to 21:30. If you are lucky enough to get inside, pay attention to the paintings decorating the walls. In the middle of the 20th century they were created by the renowned Greek artist and icon painter Fotis Kontoglou, whose style combines Byzantine traditions and modern artistic techniques. He is recognized as the founder of a distinct movement in Greek painting, and his works occupy a place of honor in the National Art Gallery.
