A low, squat church built of roughly hewn stones appeared in the center of Athens on the site of an ancient temple in the mid-11th century. The Chapel of Saint Barbara with its dome and the outer porch-narthex were added later. As a result, a three-part building of an unusual shape emerged, unfamiliar to the eye both in those days and now. This, however, did not prevent the church from becoming well visited and beloved by the people.
However, in 1834 it came under threat: a large-scale redevelopment of the city required the laying of new roads, and the old church stood in the way of one of them. But the father of the Greek king Otto opposed the demolition of the church, the bishop supported him, and Kapnikarea remained whole and unharmed.
The church keeps an unusual schedule: on Monday, Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday from 8:00 to 14:00, and on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday from 16:30 to 21:30. If you are lucky enough to get inside, pay attention to the paintings decorating the walls. In the mid-20th century they were created by the renowned Greek painter and iconographer Fotis Kontoglou, whose style combines Byzantine traditions and modern artistic techniques. He is recognized as the founder of a distinct movement in Greek painting, and his works hold a place of honor in the National Art Gallery.
